Christine Cox

Posts tagged ‘metalsmith’

Metalsmith: Polishing Inside a Tube

polishinsidetube

Metalsmith: Polishing Inside a Tube
(A typically occasional series by Christine Cox)

Need to polish inside a tube? Use a piece of rouged jute and a small vice. Run the tube back and forth a few times and you’re done.

Metalsmith: Kitchen Tools in the Studio

Metalsmith
(A typically occasional series by Christine Cox)

The sweeps drawer under my bench used to be a mess. I had tools mixed in with metal scrap, used sandpaper, leather pieces, broken saw blades, and lots and lots of metal shavings from sawing and filing. It was a major undertaking to clean it and a job I avoided. At a local store I found a metal mesh drawer organizer. Now my tools all have individual homes and all I do to clean up the drawer is to lift the organizer out, dump out the sweeps and put the organizer back in. The mesh organizer is a great holder for my most-used tools too.

Silverware holders are also wonderful for organizing tools in drawers. Mandrels, sanding sticks and other hand tools will stay in their assigned slots without beating up their neighbors.

Metalsmith: Triangles and Squares

Metalsmith: Triangles and Squares
(another installment in a typically occasional series by Christine Cox)

templateA fast way to accurately mark 3 or 4 corners on a piece of work is to use a drafter’s template. For example, let’s say you want to put 3 tiny feet on the bottom of a round box. It can be difficult to line up 3 points that look good. Simply lay a triangle template over the bottom of the box and then find the triangle that is closest in size to where you want the feet. Mark the 3 corners with a Sharpie marker and you’re done. If you want the feet in a perfect square instead, simply use whichever square template is the correct size.

2012-05-2in

Bookbinding, Metalsmithing and Stained Glass

 

 

Metalsmith: Twist to De-Bur

Metalsmith: Twist to De-Bur
(another installment in a typically occasional series by Christine Cox)removebur-done

After drilling in metal there is often a large bur around the hole. It’s unsightly, dangerous and can throw off how your piece goes together. Eliminate it easily by using a drill bit that’s larger (by far) than the hole you’ve drilled. Chuck the large bit up into a pin vise. Place the metal, bur side up, onto a surface that allows the tip of the drill bit to drop down through the hole. I usually just place the hole over the V in my bench pin, or slide it off the edge of the bench, whichever is easiest. Press down firmly and twist to remove the bur. Caution, don’t go all the way through or you’ll be left with a hole much larger than you intended. Lightly twist back and forth a couple of additional times to clear the swarf and you’re done.

This is also a quick and dirty way to create a countersunk hole. Just push down a little harder as you twist to get the characteristic flared out edge around the hole.

removebur  removebur-dtl

Available from Volcano Arts:


Metal stock


Small pin vise

Metalsmith: Filing in Tight Places

barrettefilebarrette

Metalsmith
(A typically occasional series by Christine Cox)

For filing in tight places where adjoining areas could be damaged, use a barrette file. Only one side has teeth and the other edges slope away from them. They come in several sizes and every coarseness you could need. They are even included in most needle file and mini-needle file sets.

Needle and mini-needle file sets are available from Volcano Arts
showme

Metalsmith: Binding Odd Shapes

boundbird

Metalsmith
(A typically occasional metalsmithing series by Christine Cox)

If your shape doesn’t lend itself to being wired for soldering, like this bird brooch, cut notches in the base-plate. They will be sawed off later with the rest of the excess metal. There are 4 teeny tiny notches around the profile of the bird in this picture.

Bird brooch for available in my Etsy store

Metalsmith: Hardening Sterling

Great question in my email this morning:

Natalie: I recently ordered a wood base steel bench block from you, and am so in love with it! I’m now looking to upgrade my hammer for wire hardening, as I’m finding that the finer wire (28 gauge and smaller) is not hardening well with my current plastic mallet. Would your rawhide mallet do the trick, or is there anything else you would recommend? (It would be a bonus if the rawhide is quieter than the plastic too, since I work out of a home studio and have a 4-year-old). 🙂

Christine Cox: Yes, our rawhide mallet is what you want! When they are new they are a little stiff, so they can be noisy. As the hammer wears in (a desirable trait) it gets quieter. You didn’t mention what alloy you’re using, but if it’s sterling, you can bake it for about an hour at 600 and it will increase the hardness. Copper and fine silver don’t really harden much.

Rawhide mallets are here:
http://www.volcanoarts.com/cart/metalsmithing/index.htm#rawhide

You might want to consider a pounding mat to help quiet your hammering. Put your bench block on top of it and then you don’t have wood smacking wood while you hammer:
http://www.volcanoarts.com/cart/metalsmithing/index.htm#pounding

Thanks for your inquiry. I hope this helps.

Cheers!!!
Christine Cox
Volcano Arts
www.volcanoarts.com

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